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 79-86 Center Console Restoration 

Please excuse the low quality of some of the pictures.  I had to try to use fairly high compression to keep the size of this site under control. Please be helpful and send comments here.

Go to part: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11

Part 10:  Tick Tock

Generally speaking, the clock was probably about the cleanest part of the whole thing.  It really was mostly just dusty.



There are two holes on the top and bottom of the clock.  It is plainly obvious that there are plastic fingers in there holding the face on.  Simply push an awl or something point in while pull on the face, and it will pop off.



There are 4 hex head screws holding the face onto the circuit board.  Just remove them and the face comes free.



Just a little cleaning a reassembly to go.

Now I know that there are the red plastic faces that you can get on Ebay.  However, the red plastic screen is sandwiched between two black plastic panels and head welded in place.  You would have to break those welds to replace the face.  It's far easier just to do a little polishing on it.



So on to testing.  Below is the pin out for the clock wiring harness connector.



You CAN test it with a 9v battery but the display is a little faint.  It's better to test it with a full 12v power source.  You de-pin the black wire and connect that to ground.  De-pin the White/Purple Stripe and the Light Blue/White Stripe wires and those go to 12v.  So you only need 3 wires to test the clock.

Pro-tip:  Computer power supplies put out 12v (and 5v).  I have one I salvaged from a computer a long time ago.  It's screwed onto the side of my garage.  I flip a switch, it powers up and I can test any 12v automotive device I need to.

Below you can see the clock is working.  I was able to change the time on it too.  It looks to be fully functional.



Here is a general Ford bulletin posted by the highly esteemed Foxchassis at FourEyedPride on how to troubleshoot the clock functions:  http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=20355 (I also stashed it here.)

I did a little further testing in my car connected to the dash harness.  Here is the output from the dash harness. 

Wire Lights Off, Key On Lights On, Key On Lights On, Key Off
Black (Ground) Ground Ground Ground
Light Blue/ Red Stripe (Back Light Power) 0v 5v-12v* 5v-12v*
Brown (Clock Light Switch Power) 0v 12v 12v
White/Purple Stripe (ACC power) 12v 12v 0v
Light Blue/White Stripe (Power) 12v 12v 12v
* Depending on the dimmer position, this value ranges form about 5v-12v

Somebody asked what the clock looked like without the red screen:



In Conclusion:
No surprises.  Just pop the face off and clean her up.

Testing is pretty easy too.

Part 11: Final Assembly.